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Roots Bistro Gourmand Restaurant Review: Roots’ chef Philippe Corbet is importing the bistronomic revolution to New York with revisited versions of classic French bistro fare with a gourmet twist. Local ingredients find pride of place on the menu. Adventurous palates should try the chef's tasting menu, with four or six courses and beer, wine or chef's pairing. À la carte choices abound. Dinner offerings are divided among four sections. “Start” encompasses such creative spins as risotto lollipops and house-made salmon pastrami. It’s with the “Créatif” items that the chef shines: lamb belly confit with miso eggplant, open trout ravioli, and “Drunken Rabbitttttttt” with black pepper gnocchi. Those looking to err more on the side of caution, however, will not be disappointed with “Classique” French staples like mussels and fries or herbed pappardelle, each retaining a hint of Corbet's unique spin. Dishes on the entrée side of things tend to be more American in inspiration --- a play on cheesesteak will please carnivores though British piccalilli graces the scallops and German Gewürztraminer forms the sauce for a duck plate, prepared two ways with an Asian touch. A short and sweet cocktail list does the job nicely, and desserts run the gamut from molten chocolate cake to fruit tarts to crème caramel. The only wrench in the works is the service, which can occasionally be slow and aloof.