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Roots Bistro Gourmand Restaurant Review: Roots’ chef Philippe Corbet imports the bistronomic revolution from France to New York with gourmet versions of classic French bistro fare. Local ingredients find pride of place on the menu. Adventurous palates should opt for the chef's tasting, with four or six courses and beer, wine or chef's pairing. Should you opt for à la carte, you’ll find myriad choices, organized among four sections. “Start” encompasses such creative ideas as compressed eggplant with sunchoke, edamame, dashi and butternut squash. It’s with the “Créatif” items that the chef shines: octopus paired with bacon and Gorgonzola or truffled lamb topped with pumpkin, walnut and truffle. Those looking to err more on the side of caution, however, will not be disappointed with “Classique” French staples like mussels with fries or the Royale burger, each retaining a hint of Corbet's unique spin. Dishes in the “Entrée” category tend to be more American in inspiration --- a play on surf ‘n’ turf pairs lobster with short ribs and chanterelle mushrooms, while the local Long Island duck is spiced up with almond curry and sweetened with plum. The cocktail list does the job nicely, and desserts run the gamut from molten chocolate cake to fruit tarts to crème caramel. The only wrench in the works is the service, which can occasionally be slow and aloof.