 Roots Restaurant Restaurant Review: The beige dining room in this eco-friendly hotel makes a soft first impression, but, much like the space’s understated leaf motif, subtle, winning details modestly emerge over the course of a meal. The restaurant’s simple and effective charms are mostly a tribute to the hotel’s green philosophies---warm, straightforward service includes explanations (if desired) of how your food or drink selection meets environmental requirements. This can be fun to learn about if said order includes oysters, smoked trout and braised duck with matched wines. Chef Russell Rummer’s biodynamic, sustainable, and organic wine list provides luscious complement to his seasonal menu of farmers market-fresh Cal-Med cuisine. Though heavy in naturally raised meats and sustainable seafood (most likely due to his former position as chef de cuisine at Acme Chophouse), upscale vegetarian choices include refined salads (some piled with well-chosen cheeses) and a rotating soup (such as one selection chunky with butter beans, piquillo peppers, kale and sweet slivers of garlic), as well as entrées such as house-made fettuccine with artichoke barigoule and kalamata olives. Desserts, also seasonal, are expressive and flavorful under pastry chef Irene Contreras, including fruit crisps, strudels and ice creams.
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