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Roppongi Restaurant Review: Ten-plus years later, Sami Ladeki’s Roppongi is still popular, though it has slipped in service and innovation. Locals crowd in for happy hour deals, which are a good value, but it has lost its fine-dining appeal. The settings still prove inviting: an al fresco fire pit, a booth-laden covered patio, a high-energy sushi bar and low-lit Asian-styled dining room. Chef Stephen Window delivers Asian fusion and sushi. We like to begin with cold, unfiltered Momokawa saké; the slightly coconut-pineapple flavors complement nearly all of the fish dishes. Interesting sushi choices include the vegetable roll (filled with marinated gobo root, cucumber, avocado and pea shoots) and the namesake Roppongi roll (shrimp tempura, cucumber and avocado served with spicy tuna salad and black tobiko caviar). Continue your culinary trip with Window’s seared scallops served atop tiny potato pancakes and accented with Thai basil hollandaise. Still a favorite, a playful interactive dish arrives as raw slices of New York strip steak that you cook on a 500-degree hot rock, then dip in chile-ponzu sauce. Desserts are tasty; we suggest the Tahitian bananas served over vanilla ice cream dramatically topped with buttery almond brittle.