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Rossini Italian Bistro Restaurant Review: The husband and wife team that runs Rossini has operated in three locations in town. The latest, with a more frequently changing menu, proves that the third time’s the charm. Featuring a glassed-in open kitchen, Rossini is smaller and much more handsome than any of the previous incarnations. An equally handsome order of Parma e rucola has nevertheless been replaced by rolled Parma ham with asparagus and mozzarella; an antipasto fresco is also photogenic but doesn’t elicit the same arias of praise. A lunch serving of rigatoni rosati in a creamy tomato sauce with cubes of chicken breast had the ratio right --- but the dish lacked seasoning. Previous mains have included beautifully rendered amberjack and a just-right rack of lamb. Newer offerings include a filetto ai noci with walnuts and Gorgonzola, and a shrimp risotto allo Champagne. The Italian wine list provides a decent selection of bottles, but it’s seriously deficient in wines by the glass. For dessert, we gravitate toward the likes of mascarpone with fruit.