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Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar Restaurant Review: Don’t let the forgotten strip mall location fool you---there’s passion exuding from within this kitchen, run by former Tra Vigne chef John Franchetti. It may originate with the cheese, in this case a hallowed, house-made, whole-milk burrata; as a starter paired with freshly shaved prosciutto, the mozzarella, spilling its milky core, needs no other dressing than its drizzle of McEvoy Ranch olive oil. And on the wood oven-fired pizzas, the cheese sizzles sparingly within a beautifully charred crust. These are authentically simple pies, not top-heavy American monsters. Flaky puffs of flatbread also warrant consideration: the piadine, spread with eggplant tapenade and topped with greens, goat cheese and roasted red pepper, or a naked pizzetta you dress with garbanzos, oregano and sweet onions. Loyalty to local, organic and sustainable ingredients raises Rosso above the fray of mere pizzerias. So does the Sunday night whole pig supper, the pork roasted for 12 hours. Also try the veal and pork meatballs and array of au natural salads. An inspired wine list stretches beyond Sonoma and aims for biodynamic and conscientious bottlings. The one drag: reservations for six and above only, which can mean long waits tortured by the kitchen’s aromas.