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Royal China Restaurant Review: New Orleans suburbs overflow with Chinese restaurants, but Royal China, with its modest exterior, is a mainstay, and does a fair job of producing American/Chinese cuisine. Dim lighting and a lackluster interior suggests the focus should be kept on the food. This place doesn’t use the little dining room trolleys that are so much a part of the experience at dim sum establishments in other cities, so ambience is lacking. But that doesn't interfere with the pleasures of such dishes as soft-shell crab in black bean sauce, Chinese broccoli in oyster sauce, salt-and-peppered shrimp, and a slew of various airy dumplings. There is something unappealing about Asian food on a steam table under bright lights, so you may want to avoid the all-you-can-eat buffet. The Chinese red bean pancakes and the sesame donuts make for great endings.