Roy's Restaurant Review: Each of the three dozen or so outposts of the Roy’s empire offers the Hawaiian chef’s classics that tie his name to the reinvention of the islands’ cuisine, and that’s part of the appeal. But the other half of the equation is that each location has its own “chef-partner,” and he or she has the freedom to create new dishes. So at this lively setting in the heart of downtown, with a view of the bustling streets, you’ll find Roy’s signature baby-back pork ribs, grilled over wood and spiced Szechuan-style, as well as a Caesar salad with Hawaiian hearts of palm. Sashimi is available, with options like Hawaiian tuna, salmon or hamachi. Among entrées, try the charred misoyaki butterfish, rich and decadent, enhanced by a sizzling soy vinaigrette. If you want the pineapple upside-down cake or the melting hot chocolate soufflé, you’ll need to commit with your main order, as they take time to prepare. The wine list features a number of well-chosen whites by the glass, while the Ali’I (“royalty”) list offers upscale selections including Etude Carneros Pinot Noir and Jordan Vineyards Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.
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