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Roy's Restaurant Review: We watched Hawaiian super-chef Roy Yamaguchi build his restaurant empire, and we admit we were worried that the quality of his cuisine might slip from fine dining to franchise, but we have been reassured. Roy's of Newport Beach is as good as ever. The menu, overseen by chef John Vega, includes tempura Alaskan black cod with cilantro citrus sauce, and salt-crusted rib-eye in a roasted peppercorn-shoyu brandy sauce. Little asterisks call guests' attention to classic dishes such as the Szechuan baby-back ribs, blackened ahi and melting hot chocolate soufflé. The three-course menu is the best way to sample all of the classics, and it's also a good bargain. The restaurant ramped up its already impressive offerings by installing a sushi bar with some unique "Yamaguchi sushi" touches. Among the brief dessert line-up, which is filled with island-like creations, is a buttery pineapple upside-down cake. Specialty drinks and after-dinner coffees cater to creative cocktailers --- don't miss the Hawaiian martini. Varietals from Roy's proprietary label are among the options on the interesting wine list.