 Rubirosa Restaurant Review: Using his home borough of Staten Island for inspiration, owner-chef Angelo Pappalardo (who has logged time in the kitchens at Esca and Osteria del Circo) brings a bit of zest to tourist staid Mulberry Street in what’s left of Little Italy. This is inspired Italian-American food, something the street hasn’t seen for decades. People might come for the thin-crust pies, which are good enough for diners to make the journey (though the crust was tougher than it should have been). But consider other options as well. For example, the baseball-size arancini, rice balls filled with prosciutto and molten mozzarella, make for a good kick-start to a long, leisurely meal. Pasta dishes include a very satisfying squid ink tagliatelle loaded with scallops, clams and squid and then drenched in a lobster sauce, and a heaping portion of beefy lasagna that would make any Italian-American nonna proud. The all-Italian wine list has some nice bottles in the $30 range.
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