Located in the hip Hotel Palomar, this glamorous, earth-toned dining room is full of stylish touches---a mock fireplace across from the host stand, mirror-backed banquettes, marble details---but the food strikes a decidedly more approachable note. Chef Heather Terhune crafts a menu full of familiar, updated eats---all with an eye toward local ingredients. Warm, citrusy Cerignola olives are simple and honest, as are the corn-flecked hushpuppies with smoked paprika salt (though we were left wanting for sauce). From house-made beef jerky to root beer-glazed bison short rib sliders and buttermilk-fried quail with blue cheese slaw, you can pretty much point-and-pick. You’re not going to be knocked over by innovation---but you’ll likely be pleased, as we were, with the result. End your meal with the butterscotch pot de crème, served with an unlikely pairing of candied kumquats that really works (and shows off the chef’s years of experience with sweet things). Craft cocktails from mixologist Jacques Bezuidenhout and Mike Ryan (The Violet Hour) round things off.
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