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Saigon Express Restaurant Review: The intense blue color that pervades Saigon Express’ interior creeps out to the exterior, creating a cool kind of beacon in its transitional neighborhood. Maybe it’s a French blue, come to think of it, a colonial-era allegiance that’s at least apparent in the baguette-based French sandwiches of pork meatball, Vietnamese ham and sliced roasted pork with vegetables. The sandwiches are available all day, the lunch specials are nothing to drive out of your way for, but the vermicelli or bun bowls do merit a detour. Grilled, skewered shrimp and pork, grilled chicken, Vietnamese spring rolls and stir-fried beef are a few of the toppings that can grace the tangle of rice noodles. Classic pho, or noodle soups, are another reason to seek the blue beacon.