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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Sal & Sam's Restaurant Review: The menu at this sprawling suburban restaurant is mainstream Italian-Creole, built around familiar tomato, cream and butter sauces. Baked oysters Bienville, under a cream sauce with cheese, mustard and shrimp, are a great way to begin. Shrimp are another safe bet, either cool in a peppery rémoulade or cocktail sauce, or baked in an herb-infused New Orleans-style barbecue sauce. Osso buco, dampened with the meat's juices that are studded with aromatic vegetables, is no embarrassment. The rather dark atmosphere in the windowless dining rooms and bar is anything but uplifting. Service is delivered by veteran, tuxedoed waiters who usually have matters well in hand.