Saltwood

Saltwood Restaurant Review:

Executive chef Olivier Gaupin hails from Orléans, and so he brings a certain French sensibility to his use of local raw materials. For example, there’s a very fine rabbit terrine with classic cornichons and whole-grain mustard; smoked duck sausage; and a duo of country pâté and foie gras pâté. The same goes for his taste for cheeses and cured meats, and he fills the latter assignment with the work of charcuterie producer The Spotted Trotter, while the former products are from Atlanta's CalyRoad Creamery and Thomasville's Sweet Grass Dairy. South Fulton County's Fairywood Thicket Farm provides the intensely flavored jams that appear on the breakfast board. Mussel and crab soup in a saffron-scented broth may introduce the small plates, which include an Alabama grass-fed filet that’s large enough to share while being reasonably priced. For dessert, a deconstructed Snickers bar presented its components separately centered on a pair of cigarette-size chocolate rolls. One weakness was the coffee program, but then we like our coffee fairly assertive. The good wine list offers a glass of Champagne for $20 (Nicolas Feuillatte).