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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Santo Restaurant Review: Since opening in early 2006 (as an ultra-expensive faux-Mexican restaurant), this stylish stone-walled spot---which morphs into a trendy nightclub around 11 p.m.---has gone through several chefs and major menu changes in search of food that tastes as good as the seductive space looks. An appropriate culinary identity seems to have been found, finally, by chef Cory Smith, formerly of Pacific Time. While the menu at his former kitchen was decidedly Asian-influenced, dishes here span the globe: Italy (pappardelle with shrimp, prosciutto, mushrooms and peas), France (a classic steak au poivre), the American Southwest (poblano red snapper with corn-black bean salsa), Latin America (mahi mahi with flambéed tropical salsa). But Asian-inspired starters---a tuna duo, a Thai vinaigrette-dressed spicy shrimp salad, a Napa cabbage-and-shiitake-stuffed spring roll---remain strong points of the chef’s repertoire. Diners who want to make a meal of such small plates, though, should arrive early; after 9 p.m. one entrée per person is required. The hip wine list concentrates on California selections, at very fair prices.