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Sarducci's Restaurant Review: Perched over a placid stretch of the Winooski River, Sarducci's offers casual Italian dining in the heart of Vermont's capital city. And while its predictable décor (paper napkins and stock Mediterranean prints) won’t win any awards for style, the food attracts crowds. Dishes that deliver for a modest price include creamy shrimp and scallop Alfredo or baked penne with Italian sausage, red wine and mushrooms. Pizzas are fired in a brick oven that dominates the open kitchen. Try the Florentine pie with garlic, spinach and basil or the white pizza with artichoke hearts. Calamari fritti was salty, and served with a jarring cocktail sauce, but the polenta al forno in a sage and mushroom cream left us murmuring with delight. Sarducci’s cellar, boasting Super Tuscans and Cabernets, is affordable. Stick with a Nebbiolo or a Barolo, and try for a seat on the sun porch, perfect for informal lunches or romance by the river.