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Sarducci's Restaurant Review: Perched over a placid stretch of the Winooski River, Sarducci's offers casual Italian dining in the heart of Vermont's capital city. And while its predictable décor (paper napkins and stock Mediterranean prints) won’t win any awards for style, the food attracts crowds. Dishes that deliver for a modest price include garlicky shrimp Alfredo, or pollo al forno, with chewy penne peeking from under a canopy of cheeses. Pizzas are fired in a brick oven that dominates the open kitchen. We shared the barbecue chicken pie, with roasted corn, sweet onions, blue cheese crumbles, and a bold marinara; a bit robust, but the wafer thin crust had mozzarella baked right up to its edges, with a lightly buttered bite that made every piece worth finishing. Calamari fritti was salty, and served with a jarring cocktail sauce, but the polenta al forno in a sage and mushroom cream left us murmuring with delight. Sarducci’s cellar, boasting Super Tuscans and Cabernets, is affordable, if uninspired. Stick with a Nebbiolo or a Barolo, and try for a seat on the sun porch, perfect for informal lunches or romance by the river.