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Sushi purists jockey for space at the miniscule bar of this mod Hayes Valley restaurant. The space is stylish and contemporary with a loft-like atmosphere, Japanese screens and six sleek, trapezoidal wood tables along with the coveted ringside seats. Sushi chef Michael Black grew up in Japan and with this venture has fulfilled the desire to bring the freshest selection of seasonal raw fish possible to the city. Along with chef Black, Nao Hashimoto (formerly of Sushi Ota in San Diego) mans the sushi bar. Striped shimaaji are beautiful, firm and silky; bluefin honmaguro is as big in flavor as a first-rate cut of red meat, while the chutoro (fatty) and ootoro (fattiest) portions melt like lumps of sweet butter in the mouth. Monkfish liver is painstakingly poached in-house and the result, served over rice, could be called the foie gras of sushi. Fish are garnished with delicate, appropriate enhancements---shiso or its fragrant buds, green onion, a hint of bonito marinade---and presented in vivid tableaus. Here soy sauce is a condiment, to be used thoughtfully, sparingly. Beau Timken, neighboring venue True Sake's master saké sommelier, has built a diverse, rotating list of rare and treasured sakés to complement the experience.
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