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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Shiitake Restaurant Review: Hot, hot, hot is this newcomer to the Clayton restaurant scene. This New York-ly dark and spare, severely Japanese minimalist-looking spot faces the St. Louis County courthouse. The large front window offers a pleasing view of some whimsical site-specific sculptures across the street. Some claim they don't understand the food here, but essentially it is Asian fusion cuisine that's delivered to crowds of loud happy eaters, including a major segment of St. Louis' power structure. True to St. Louis expectations, nothing much seems to be downright fiery. Nevertheless, the tongue is intrigued with shrimp and lobster-filled potsticker dumplings and hot and sour duck soup. Lobster phad Thai promises a little more than it delivers if your mouth is set for true Thai, but the sea bass is perfectly cooked and just right for novices to this style. Beautiful and well-thought-out desserts like ginger crème brûlée in a pineapple half and chocolate-banana spring rolls come out winners. Walk-up eaters can be fed at the bar and watch the kitchen magicians at work. From the del Pietro family (Portabella, et al), who would have thought an Asian success? Valet parking as with many similar Clayton spots.