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Sitka & Spruce Restaurant Review: Hidden in the back corner of Melrose Market, the restaurant has a brick interior with loft-style windows and a sultry, minimalistic feel that pairs well with the New American cuisine crafted with locally sourced ingredients. Chef Matt Dillon’s imaginative touch results in complex dishes bursting with unusual flavors and textures, and the regularly changing menu might have you reaching for a dictionary. Plates are designed to be shared. You could encounter ham baked in hay with house-fermented sauerkraut; chicken liver pâté paired with Brussels sprouts; and roasted carrot salad with chickpea purée. Larger options can bring half a roasted chicken or braised and grilled pork chops with red cabbage. Fish selections, such as Blackmouth salmon with sunchokes and chard, are also frequently available. Desserts are ready for indulging. How does bay leaf-quince ice cream atop a ginger cookie sound? Monday nights are guest chef evenings with fare ranging from authentic tacos to jambalaya. The well-chosen wine list stars mostly Pacific Northwest varietals. Service is smart, but not especially gracious. Only a limited number of reservations are offered nightly, so you may endure a long wait.