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Slows Bar BQ Restaurant Review: Located near the striking, if somewhat derelict, old train station, Slows is part of the area's revitalization. Interestingly, the front of the brick building is covered with 400 different-size funnels, which are part of a public art project commissioned by the restaurant’s owner, Phillip Cooley. They reflect the shifting sunlight and generate shadows that move across the wall as the hours tick by. Once inside, try the brisket enchilada, gumbo or JP's Revenge---pit-smoked ham smothered in smoked Gouda with onion marmalade and Slows' mustard sauce. The food here, based on the concept of open-pit barbecue and slow cooking, produces slide-off-the-bone brisket, baby-back ribs, pulled pork and chicken dishes that range from sweet to tangy, depending on your preference. The sides, which reflect a Southern sensibility, include a rich macaroni and cheese, waffle fries (cheese is extra but worth that dollar) and black-eyed peas.