The Smith Restaurant Review: Glen Harris and Jeffrey Lefcourt keep things simple with their projects, presumably why they chose to follow up Jane in the West Village with The Smith. The space, on a rather desolate stretch of Third Avenue last occupied by a Pizzeria Uno and flanked by two NYU dorms, is similarly anonymous inside, where black and white tile and banquettes predominate. Between the students and the acoustics, it makes for a raucous environment fueled by a selection of specialty cocktails like the Traveling Brit (made with gin and Pernod) and the Moscow Mule (ginger beer and vodka with lime). There’s also a smattering of microbrews on tap and a decent wine list, improved by the quantity of the huge carafes. Appetizers range from a delicate Alsatian pizza, topped with bacon, onions and crema to healthier fare like a slightly overdressed string bean salad. Entrées are scaled to feed a hungry undergraduate. The thick pork chop with apples, chipotle onions and fennel is enough for at least two. The Parmesan-crusted lamb schnitzel with mashed potatoes, however, is less than the sum of its parts, and is a disappointment, especially compared to the flavorful steak salad with endive and goat cheese. In short, the kitchen turns out crowd-pleasers that are just the kind of blotter a diner would want after several strong cocktails.
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