 Sorella Restaurant Review: At first glance, this Lower East Side Italian joint might seem like just one of the crowd, but look a little closer and you’ll be pleasantly surprised. The small plates of Italian food stand out from the pack, and do so with aplomb. The long space has an arched ceiling made of wine barrels cut in half and spare brick walls painted white. The kitchen (and bar, which features several beers from the area) focuses on the regional cuisine of Piedmont. For the average diner, this simply means that you’ll be seeing a lot fewer tomatoes than elsewhere in the neighborhood: Ligurian anchovies come with salsa verde and flatbread, pillowy agnolotti stuffed with beef have a simple beef reduction as a sauce, and tajarin, a thin pasta with lamb ragù. Even side dishes like fried Brussels sprouts, an afterthought at many Italian restaurants, are commendable here. Don’t skip dessert, either, as gelati in flavors like salted caramel are made in-house. The wine list is more pan-Italian, though with over 150 different bottles, it offers a little something for everyone. Note: Chef Emma Hearst has left Sorella.
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