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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Soto

357 Sixth Ave. (Washington Pl.) Send to Phone
212-414-3088
Discreet charm at an upscale Japanese eatery on bustling Sixth Avenue.

Cuisine
Open
Dinner Mon.-Sat.
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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Soto, New York, NY

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Soto Restaurant Review

: It seemed strange that one of the South’s top sushi chefs would abandon his beloved flagship eatery, but that’s exactly what happened---and the residents of the Big Apple are the lucky benefactors of the move. Sotohiro Kosugi slipped into a nondescript Village shoebox with lofty aspirations. The space’s spare, white-and-beige interior has a blank-canvas feel, so that the focus is right where it should be---on the artistry crossing the plate, and the palate. Like a trompe l’oeil, sea bream steamed with ginger-scallion oil transforms into something meatier, like frogs’ legs. And he tosses uni around like Jackson Pollock, using it as a smoky layering between lobster wrapped in lotus root; softly encircling it in thin-sliced squid and a quail egg topping; and puréeing it as a creamy bed for sea eel. Other modernist pieces include hamachi cubes and pine nuts wrapped in white kelp with wasabi roe with a genius side of soy foam, and a pristine, thin-sliced striped jack with the essence of ginger, truffle and soy. Kosugi doesn’t forget the classics, though, as the globally sourced sushi is painstakingly prepared with a touch of homemade soy and a dab of wasabi, the way the masters have done it for centuries. Green tea and mango mochi---rice-flour balls stuffed with ice cream---are the only dessert offerings, so as to not upstage the lingering taste of the preceding dishes.
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