THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Sovereign

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Sovereign Restaurant Review:

Once upon a time, high-end restaurants all served Continental cuisine, a blend of French and German fare mostly proliferated by Swiss chefs and hoteliers. At its best, it was sumptuous and satisfying; at its worst it was heavy and uninspired. But a quarter-century of culinary trends---nouvelle, minceur, nuevo Latino, Pacific Rim, American regional, for example---has practically wiped Continental cuisine off the high-end restaurant map. Fortunately for culinary archaeologists and those of us who value a great veal Oscar, a few bastions of traditional Continental cooking remain. The Sovereign, located in a restored carriage house, is one of those hold-outs. Step into the brick-and-burgundy-appointed dining room and order the aforementioned veal Oscar---fork-tender white veal topped with asparagus, lump crab meat and silky béarnaise sauce---or go for Cornish game hen with apple butter and Calvados or go all out with a classic chateaubriand for two. Cheesecakes, creamy pies and a range of ice creams and sherbets close the menu, or you can always cap the evening with liqueur-laced coffee and whipped cream.