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The Spence Restaurant Review: “Top Chef All-Stars” winner Richard Blais launched The Spence, but now has departed for other endeavors, leaving the operation in the hands of Wesley True. Atlanta-based restaurant design firm The Johnson Studio conceived the interior: high ceilings, open areas with a full view of the galley kitchen, and suspended bottle-storage shelving over communal tables. Retaining the sweeping fenestration that embraces the street-scape, the team produced a comfortable, contemporary space. The menu focuses on small plates; however, they're not really meant for sharing, unless you assemble a good number of them. The “oysters & pearls,” a Blais creation, presents four briny bivalves topped with nitrogen-shaped pearls. Caesar salad is made with baby kale --- a worthy alternative to lettuce. Chilled foie gras terrine stars among small plates. A pair of pasta dishes come in two portion sizes. Southern flavors may appear in the form of pork belly, grits or peanut brittle, all depending on the chef's whim and what's available. For the less adventurous, the “Juicy Lucy” is a double cheeseburger with the cheese folded into the meat, apparently a Midwestern inspiration. The wine list is truly sexy, exploring little-known regions and grape types. It's divided into those choices that may be familiar and those that invite daring exploration. But then, that describes the entire experience in a nutshell.