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2500 W. Chicago Ave. (Rockwell St.) Send to Phone
“New Americana” cuisine finds a home in West Town.

Dinner nightly, Brunch Sat.-Sun.

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Split-Rail, Chicago, IL

Split-Rail Restaurant Review

About the chef & décor: This West Town neighborhood eatery situated in a former doughnut factory is chef Zoe Schor’s first foray as owner. Previously executive chef of DMK Restaurants’ Ada St., Schor puts her personal stamp on the dishes emblematic of what she calls “New Americana.” Even the dining room feels familiar: area rugs splayed on the floor, an equine-printed banquette, and the industrial touches found all over Chicago, from exposed brick to a tin bar wide enough to hold the neighbors. A few steps up from the dining room an exhibition kitchen cranks out food, just across from what will be a chef’s table specifically reserved for tasting menus.

Likes: Affordable, well-edited menu in a textbook Chicago space.
Dislikes: Acoustics can be challenging when there’s a crowd.

Food & Drinks: Schor’s “baby” is built on heart. Tributes to the classics --- crispy, golden brown chicken nuggets with a side of honey mustard, for example --- are subtle and stylish. Loaded potato gnocchi, with house bacon, sour cream, Hook’s five-year-cheddar and potato skins, riff on the loaded baked potato. Toast No. 2, a shareable platter of semolina bread, country ham salad and white anchovy, is reminiscent of canapés that might grace a table at a dinner party. Moving to more substantial bites, linguine and clams is a perfectly salty version with egg yolk pasta, littleneck clams, uni butter and garlic breadcrumbs. “A Duck in Three Acts” is a must-order, a photo-worthy plate of roasted duck breast, crispy leg scrumpet and a sunnyside egg. Simple, spongy angel food cake surfs on a wave of Chantilly cream and fresh berries. Wines by the glass, global wines, craft cocktails and beer round out the menu.
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