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Incongruously on the fringe of Chinatown, near downtown Los Angeles, Carolina-style barbecue is being served up in a bright counter-service storefront. Jammed into the small space, communal tables are topped with bags of pre-sliced soft white bread for making impromptu sandwiches from or sopping up the juices of flavorful, tender, smoky ribs, brisket, pulled pork, sliced tri-tip, hot links, turkey breast and jumbo turkey legs. Take your pick individually, in combos or as sandwiches on rolls. Other main dishes range from more creative (bacon-wrapped chicken stuffed with jalapeños, jack cheese and onions) to homespun (smoked bologna). All plates and sandwiches include a choice of two sides, among which we like the collard greens, hush puppies, baked beans and potato salad. Whether you opt for the milder sweet or more pungent hot sauces, both good, request them on the side, lest they overpower the meat. If you phone ahead, they'll bring your to-go order out to your car.
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