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The Square Restaurant Review: The Square is the epitome of a sophisticated London restaurant: the cooking is an excellent example of all that is good in the English-French genre; service is professional; the napery, cutlery and crockery first-class. The walls of the appropriately square room are decorated with a collection of contemporary abstracts, and the clientele run to a well-heeled, well-dressed business-oriented crowd. Chef and co-owner Philip Howard’s cooking never seems to miss a beat. Try a roast foie gras with a tart of caramelized endive and burnt orange purée, or a lasagna of crab with a cappuccino of shellfish and Champagne foam, an addition that has become something of a cliché but is ideal here with seafood. For mains, perhaps a pot au feu of Bresse pigeon with new season asparagus, morels and hazelnut dumplings. Desserts might include rhubarb with yoghurt parfait and vanilla. The wine list is formidable, with prices to match at the top end of the scale. The Square is unusually open on Sunday evening, when the business crowd melts away and a jollier group takes over, giving the restaurant a light, buzzing atmosphere. Set lunch is a steal at £35 for 2-courses, and £40 for three; set 3-course dinner £95, 9-course tasting menu £120, with wines £190 per person (whole table only).