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St. Jack

1610 NW 23rd Ave. Send to Phone
A lively spot for capable French bistro cooking.

Cuisine
Open
Dinner nightly
Features
  • Dress code: Casual
  • Full bar
  • Reservations suggested

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St. Jack Restaurant Review

: St. Jack moved across the river, gaining square footage and more patrons, but losing some romance in the process. The new setting is bland modern rather than vintage, the vibe is crowded and buzzy, and service can be erratic. Fortunately, the chef is the same and the cooking remains more or less intact. The menu offers generous "small" plates that may be combined for a satisfying meal. Recommended are the salade Lyonnaise with frisée, bacon, bacon fat croutons and a poached egg; and plump mussels in a broth seasoned by shallots, vermouth and crème fraîche. There's also a large French cheese selection, along with a raw shellfish bar. Main dishes include steak frites, of course, or a notable roast trout paired with a warm lentil salad and arugula. Adventurous carnivores may want to try fried tripe with red onion mayonnaise, or crispy pork rind with maple syrup. Vegetarians typically have one choice, perhaps a flaky mushroom and asparagus tarte. Dessert “musts” include baked-to-order madeleines and homemade ice creams. At the bar, unusual French liqueurs are available, while the wine list focuses on French, Oregon and Washington varietals, and boasts a few vintages “on tap” from the barrel.



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