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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED NAMES St. James's Restaurant Restaurant Review: The formal St. James's Restaurant on the fourth floor of the very grand Fortnum & Mason shop is delightful, just like the drawing room of a gracious, stately home. It’s the most formal of the store’s five restaurants, so dress accordingly. The cooking is good, veering towards traditional British with a nod to neighboring France. Starters might include Dorset crab and mango relish; mains run from lemon sole with Cornish squid and samphire to lamb noisette with aubergine caviar and Provençal vegetables. Service is courteous and old-fashioned (in the best sense); a pianist keeps the dowagers happy and there are various hearty teas available.