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541 Edgewood Ave. SE (Howell St. SE) Send to Phone
Focused on seasonally available ingredients, chef Ryan Smith offers some of the most inventive fare in the city.

Lunch Sun., Dinner Wed.-Sat.

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Staplehouse, Atlanta, GA

Staplehouse Restaurant Review

: At home in a historic Old Fourth Ward building whose brick walls lend texture to the interior, Staplehouse is one of the most exciting restaurants in the city. Inside, there's a bar and a visible kitchen. Communal tables on the sheltered rear patio provide great places to meet people. A tasting menu may be arranged for parties of up to 6 persons, but the à la carte lineup of small dishes constitutes the crux of the menu. We find the portions plenty, but it’s not for the meat-and-potatoes patron; here, food satisfies aesthetic requirements as well as hunger. Frequently changing offerings often have classical foundations, while some are rooted in Southern cooking, such as the potato bread rolls, served with a whipped olive oil/coconut oil spread that is sweet and salty and softly compelling. We liked the chicken roulade, which wrapped both leg and breast meat into a tight roll peeking out from under a side of fresh frisée. Sapelo Island (Georgia coast) clams were perfectly cooked sweet morsels riding atop a light fermented sausage broth and a bit of Charleston Gold rice. For dessert: a deconstructed Almond Joy with a mound of soft chocolate sorbet. The wine list is intelligent and challenging. A glass of Champagne Philippe Gonet from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger happily handled both dishes, and a Spanish vermouth from Atxa made after dinner special. The restaurant is diminutive, so reservations are essential. Staplehouse contributes its after-tax profit to The Giving Kitchen, which aids area restaurant workers facing crises.


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