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Staplehouse

541 Edgewood Ave. SE (Howell St. SE) Send to Phone
404-524-5005
Focused on seasonally available ingredients, chef Ryan Smith offers some of the most inventive fare in the city.
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Local Deals: 120 * 90

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Open
Lunch Sun., Dinner Wed.-Sat.
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Staplehouse, Atlanta, GA

Staplehouse Restaurant Review

: At home in a historic Old Fourth Ward building whose brick walls lend texture to the interior, Staplehouse is one of the most exciting restaurants in the city. Inside, there's a bar and a visible kitchen. Communal tables on the sheltered rear patio provide great places to meet people. A tasting menu may be arranged for parties of up to 6 persons, but the à la carte lineup of small dishes constitutes the crux of the menu. We find the portions plenty, but it’s not for the meat-and-potatoes patron; here, food satisfies aesthetic requirements as well as hunger. Frequently changing offerings often have classical foundations, while some are rooted in Southern cooking, such as the potato bread rolls, served with a whipped olive oil/coconut oil spread that is sweet and salty and softly compelling. We liked the chicken roulade, which wrapped both leg and breast meat into a tight roll peeking out from under a side of fresh frisée. Sapelo Island (Georgia coast) clams were perfectly cooked sweet morsels riding atop a light fermented sausage broth and a bit of Charleston Gold rice. For dessert: a deconstructed Almond Joy with a mound of soft chocolate sorbet. The wine list is intelligent and challenging. A glass of Champagne Philippe Gonet from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger happily handled both dishes, and a Spanish vermouth from Atxa made after dinner special. The restaurant is diminutive, so reservations are essential. Staplehouse contributes its after-tax profit to The Giving Kitchen, which aids area restaurant workers facing crises.

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