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Stark's Steakhouse Restaurant Review: On the fringes of downtown Santa Rosa, three blocks from the soup kitchen line and just over the railroad tracks, Stark’s red neon marquee breaks the night. There may be a few old-timers who mourn the stale and stalwart 1950s Italian joint, but its reincarnation as a steakhouse with a dandy retro noir vibe suits the rest of us just fine. The ample front room with spiffy polished wood and black leather packs in regular Joes wanting to feel like a million bucks for a night. It’s easy with a recession era happy hour established as charity until the Dow hit 10,000 and is now irrevocable. Prime meatloaf sliders, raw ahi tacos, oysters, and truffle fries pair with martinis on a barstool or at a cozy fireplace table. Big spenders head straight for the suave, woodsy dining room with red lamps, white linens, and privacy barriers between booths. Prime or choice steaks, grass-fed, dry-aged, and sometimes local beckon indulgent toppers from béarnaise to bone marrow or truffled egg. Hefty à la cartes include BLT mac ‘n’ cheese with smoked bacon, tomato confit and spinach, silky crème fraîche mashers, and Brussels sprouts with linguiça, blue cheese and apples. Go for broke with finales such as thyme-roasted peaches and waffles or chocolate banana bread pudding. There’s a worldly wine list, or BYO with no corkage.