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Stella Mare's Restaurant Review: Right across the street from Santa Barbara's famous bird refuge and lake, Stella Mare's features two dining venues. The glass-encased greenhouse offers a panoramic view, fireside couches and a full bar, a setting ideal for its weekend brunch and Wednesday night jazz. For more formal dinners, we prefer the main dining wing, which was once a Victorian home, where seating spreads out across several quaint rooms featuring French provincial décor. Every appetizer here is, well, appetizing. Crab cakes are fresh and soft, served with a chili rémoulade. The artichoke grilled over oak comes out lightly and deliciously charred and is served with a garlic aïoli. We especially like the richness of the lobster medallions served on brioche, topped with shavings of foie gras and a Grand Marnier sauce. The dinner menu makes culinary adventurers happy, with entrées like oak-grilled rack of elk, venison osso buco and braised boar shank. We recommend the pan-seared buffalo loin for its heft of flavor and surprisingly soft texture, the meat's richness tempered by the sweetness of the yam soufflé served alongside. Seafood lovers find satisfaction in such fresh choices as prawns, scallops, lobster, sea bass and salmon. Santa Barbara County wines comprise most of the wine list, which also includes selections from France and the Pacific Northwest.