THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Stephen Bull

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Stephen Bull Restaurant Review:

’Grown up restaurants’ is how Mr. Bull thinks of his establishments. That does not suggest that the younger generation is excluded; happy families dining here include young children who are as well looked after as the more typical mature clientele. Mr. Bull’s ’grown up’ means an ever-changing, short, three-course set price menu of serious western European dishes. It is far from ’fast food’, so patience is called for, but Roger Gorman’s accurate cooking produces strong but not overpowering flavours which make any wait well worthwhile. Starters might include twice-baked goat cheese soufflé with parsley, coriander and olive salad, or seared scallops, creamed endive and wilted roquette. Equally successful main dishes were fried calf’s liver and kidney, mustard sauce and creamed potatoes, and guinea fowl with roast shallots and apples. In the desserts the choice is wider and of a quality, and quantity, to satisfy the child in every man or woman. Steamed ginger pudding is made with the traditional suet, while warm baked pumpkin cheesecake proves that two usually bland ingredients can be combined in a remarkably full-flavoured partnership. The wide-ranging, carefully selected wine list is divided by style, not geography, and prices are reasonable. Set 2-course lunch £22, 3 courses £26; set 3-course dinner £27.50.