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Streetside Seafood Restaurant Review: Cozy is an understatement when describing this petite, brick-walled seafooder that is so crammed with devotees most nights that the waiters can barely squeeze through to reach the tightly packed tables. The copper-topped bar takes up half the space, which fills with casually dressed young professionals who meet to mingle; often, they spill out toward the fashionable suburban downtown area while awaiting a seat. Beneath ceilings hung with huge fish sculptures, diners partake in cioppino, its tomato fennel broth full of clams, mussels, shrimp and cod; sea scallop gratin with butternut squash, cauliflower, mushrooms, Gruyère mornay sauce and lemon gremolata; and pepper-crusted filet mignon served with a port wine mushroom demi-glace. Desserts include dark chocolate crème brûlée with sea salt and walnut bourbon pie. The well-stocked wine cellar holds affordable whites and reds from all over the globe.