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| First, they re-booted the short-order format with Town Talk Diner. Now, co-owners Aaron Johnson and Tim Niver are putting their spin on the neighborhood steakhouse. The intimate, romantic space (especially the row of tables lining the narrow balcony) has lovely skyline views, and the affordable, is-everybody-happy menu has something for every taste. This all starts with the New York strip steak so sizzlingly good that it makes sense to name the restaurant after it. But chef J.D. Fratzke's menu also includes a long and wonderfully unpredictable list of small plates---kidney beans over toast points; seared foie gras cut with citrus accents; an onion-bacon tartlet; deep-fried catfish with bacon ketchup; delicate fried oysters; and well-chosen charcuterie, to name a few. You'll also have to contend with big, bold burgers, Swedish meatballs and walleye fritters. Desserts don't quite match the rest of the kitchen's prowess, but weekend brunch does (order the finnan haddie omelet). Gifted bartenders mix up all kinds of classic American cocktails. |
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