 City foodies make a big deal when a notable restaurant opens in the suburbs. It’s silly, but such is the case with this hot hotel spot. We'll glaze over all that and simply say that when a restaurant utilizes produce from an on-site garden, it’s usually on to something. Curiously, the restaurant derives its name from an (ugly) east coast blowfish; however, the sleek setting comes courtesy of Dirk Lohan, the grandson of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. The menu, available in prix-fixe and à la carte form, includes options like potatoes with dill pollen, char roe and orange; king crab with popcorn tapioca and hints of anise; and ocean trout, paired with an array of cucumbers, blooms and lemon verbena. From there, apple pain perdu, plated with cinnamon ice cream and salted caramel, brings a touch of sweet. On Sundays, a dedicated steak menu focuses on the meat of the matter.
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