 SugarToad Restaurant Review: City foodies always make a big deal when a notable restaurant opens in the suburbs. It’s silly, but such was the case with the opening of this hot hotel spot. We'll glaze over all that and simply say chef Geoff Rhyne, who utilizes produce from an on-site garden when possible, is onto something. Curiously, the restaurant derives its name from an (ugly) east coast blowfish; however, the sleek setting comes courtesy of Dirk Lohan, the grandson of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. The menu includes oxtail braised for six hours with truffle oil, lobster sauce and Parmesan. From there, it’s on to moist Amish chicken brushed with an apple cider glaze and served with cannellini beans and roasted butternut squash purée. All in all, this is a likable place --- maybe not groundbreaking, but certainly enjoyable --- where the crème fraîche panna cotta is exactly what you’d expect.
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SugarToad Restaurant is one of GAYOT's 2013
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