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Sukho Thai Restaurant Review: Sukho Thai is about the only game in town when it comes to Thai food in the Marigny. What could have been a cold, cavernous space has been artfully enlivened with muted colors, soft lighting and architecturally-pleasing room divides. Saucy egg noodles with chicken broth, dumplings with water chestnuts, and green papaya salads with fish sauce and sweetened with palm sugar combine to bring forth reminiscences of Bangkok. Vibrant curries taste as if the cooks make them to order with a mortar and pestle, and the whole-fish dishes include steamed flounder, which emerges perfumed with lemon grass and makrut lime leaf. Coconut rice pudding is a subtle ending to a meal. Wines are limited, but carefully chosen to complement the spicy fare; sakés and teas are plentiful. In fact, the lengthy tea menu is well worth studying and sampling.