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Sun Sui Wah Seafood Restaurant Restaurant Review: After you've ascended Sun Sui Wah's curving staircase you'd be remiss if you didn't stop and admire the lively crabs --- both Dungeness and Alaska king crab --- lobsters and swimming fish in the massive glass tanks in the entryway. After all, they just might be your dinner. Simon Chan was wise to transplant the exacting standards and benchmark dishes of his successful Hong Kong restaurant group across the Pacific. The featured dish reigns supreme: succulent, crispy-skinned, roasted squab prepared from a carefully guarded recipe. Everything else is modern, from the informative service to the airy contemporary décor, to the menu of skillfully prepared Cantonese classics. We can never resist the broccoli-skirted steamed chicken interwoven with black mushrooms and Yunnan ham; the addictive crispy tofu with spicy sauce; or the roasted Peking duck. Adventurous eaters should sample the lightly sautéed geoduck paired with deep-fried “milk” goose webs or chicken knees. Top marks go to dim sum delights: shrimp har gow, steamed beef rice rolls with cilantro, and cream-filled mango pancakes. A full bar offers a range of libations and a surprisingly good wine list, while fragrantly sweet tapioca pudding baked beneath a golden crust or red bean soup with lotus seeds and dried lily add an exotic sweet finish to any meal.