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Sun Sui Wah Seafood Restaurant Restaurant Review: Ascend Sun Sui Wah's curving staircase and you're greeted by massive glass tanks in the entryway full of lively crabs (Dungeness and Alaska king), lobsters, swimming fish and fresh prawns in season, any of which just might be your dinner. Simon Chan was wise to transplant the exacting standards and benchmark dishes of his successful Hong Kong restaurant group across the Pacific. Sun Sui Wah's featured item reigns supreme: crispy-skinned roasted squab prepared from a carefully guarded recipe. Everything else is modern, from the airy décor to the menu of skillfully executed Cantonese classics. We can never resist the sautéed sliced beef with XO sauce, broccoli-skirted steamed chicken interwoven with black mushrooms and Yunnan ham, the addictive crispy tofu with spicy sauce or the roasted Peking duck. Adventurous eaters should sample the lightly sautéed geoduck paired with deep-fried “milk” goose webs or chicken knees. Not to be missed are the deep-fried crab claws stuffed with shrimp paste and the braised oysters with green onions and ginger. Top marks go to dim sum delights: shrimp har gow, steamed beef rice rolls with cilantro and cream-filled mango pancakes. A full bar provides a range of libations and a surprisingly good wine list. Red bean soup with lotus seeds and dried lily add an exotic sweet finish to any meal. Service is swift, graceful and informative.