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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Susanna Foo Restaurant Review: THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS CLOSED From cooking in a local restaurant to becoming the reigning empress in her own eponymous establishment, Susanna Foo shines brightly in this dramatic venue, another triumph on Restaurant Row for decorator Marguerite Rodgers. This sweep of soft taupe and mirrors painted with cherry blossoms and birds is not your everyday Chinese restaurant. In fact, walls lined with wicker, parchment fringed fixtures, faux painting, different textures and fabrics, and spot-on lighting do not speak of any particular culture, just good taste. Foo has extensive French training, yet her dim sum is impeccable. Pan-fried pork dumplings, Mongolian lamb pillows spiced with cumin and leeks, seared day boat and goat cheese wontons, delicate crab shu mei, duck pot stickers with portobellos and persimmon chutney---all form a sampler of topnotch tastes. Tuxedo-clad waiters efficiently arrange plates for you, and seem to anticipate your every need. What could you need after tiny eight-treasure quail, shiny as mahogany, or crisp prawns with fresh-water chestnuts, or lamb with braised fennel? Desserts carefully cradle an Asian-American philosophy; a raspberry-caramel chocolate truffle tart infuses jasmine and a banana chocolate tartlet plays with honey and ginger counterpoints.