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Sustenio Restaurant Review: The Eilan Hotel Resort & Spa dominates a Nouveau Tuscan complex overlooking IH-10 near the upscale La Cantera shopping center and Fiesta Texas. And though there may be theme park aspects to the development, the food at Eilan’s flagship restaurant, Sustenio, is anything but frivolous. The menu has been conceived by Texas chef Stephan Pyles. The expansive ceviche bar, with selections such as tuna with passion fruit and coconut, almost steals the show. Some appetizers hark back to the glory days of New Southwestern cuisine with the likes of tamale tart with roasted garlic custard; others such as pork belly with vanilla-scented grits reflect more current tastes. Among the entrées, Texas red snapper enveloped in a Thai red curry tamal was largely successful, while a sous-vide Texas venison loin (no longer on the menu) disappointed. A ceviche bar tasting menu is available, too. Among the wines in a glass-enclosed display room, the 2010 Belle Glos Pinot Noir is a winner.