Sustenio

Sustenio Restaurant Review:

The Eilan Hotel Resort & Spa dominates a Nouveau Tuscan complex overlooking IH-10 near the upscale La Cantera shopping center and Fiesta Texas. And though there may be theme park aspects to the development, the food at Eilan’s flagship restaurant, Sustenio, is anything but frivolous. The debut menu was conceived by Texas chef Stephan Pyles as an homage to new Southwestern cuisine, but has taken on a second life in the Mediterranean basin. Gone is the ceviche bar to be replaced by mezze such as haloumi-stuffed squash blossoms and sea scallops with preserved lemon. Chermoula-spiced tenderloin comes with kumquat chutney, there’s a lively cinnamon- and ginger-spiced pork osso buco, and bouillabaisse is served with smoked-tomato rouille. From the flatbread oven issue forth Turkish lahmacum with ground lamb and tandoori-style chicken with a spicy saffron-tomato sauce, and a charcuterie selection provides either appetizer or simply light-snack options. Among the wines in a glass-enclosed display room, the lush Belle Glos Pinot Noir is a winner.