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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED swimclub 32 Restaurant Review: It's not easy to find swimclub 32 (once an old liquor store) because there's simply no signage out on the street. But get into the general vicinity (the historic Highlands neighborhood) and you can follow your nose. The zen-like interior is accented by a water-wall, low-slung couch seating and zebra-wood tables. Smooth jazz, big band and reggae provide a quiet background for conversation, though the music gets louder as the evening goes on. The food is simple, often organic and always well prepared. We like to start with refreshing lychee or green tea martinis or a cup of saké. There are also 30-plus wines by the glass, and many reasonably priced bottles. A small-plate dinner can include vibrant red gazpacho or thinly sliced Niman Ranch tenderloin that you cook at your table on a super-heated river stone. When we're really hungry, we order a robust ropa vieja (Latin-style stewed shredded beef) over rice or a roasted chicken breast served with creamy wild mushroom risotto. For dessert, try the molten-center chocolate cake topped with homemade ice cream. Weekend brunch, popular with locals, features crème brûlée french toast and outstanding lattes.