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T.H.A.I. in Shirlington Restaurant Review: T.H.A.I. in Shirlington is such an attractive place with its architectural devices and hard-edged colors that you probably will want to come for the setting, if nothing else. And that is apparently part of the owners concept: To rid patrons of preconceived ideas of Thai décor and Thai cooking. If the design breaks with tradition, so does the menu, filled with dishes with Thai names, but not necessarily with Thai flavors. Weve enjoyed the restaurants roast duck salad and what they called kao soi, which is a Northern Thai specialty, but neither resembles the originals. Presentation, however, is part of the plan, too, and every plate is a staged architectural arrangement that is as pretty as the restaurant.