Tapenade

Tapenade Restaurant Review:

Slowly emerging as a hidden gem in the Sawtelle neighborhood, Tapenade offers a stylish atmosphere perfect for date night or a gathering of friends. Walls are adorned with playful portraits that pay homage to food, particularly one of a young girl shoving a handful of noodles in her mouth. To start, it’s practically a requirement to order one of the varied preparations of Brussels sprouts. The “classic” features the roasted bulbs tossed with sliced almonds and Parmesan, though we enjoy “Thai” style --- a bold combination of chile, peanuts, mango and spicy rice vinegar. Ricotta with olive tapenade on crusty bread is simple and satisfying; grilled squid is a tender cut atop a classic Spanish combination of tomato, white beans and chorizo; and paella is an inventive adaptation of the iconic dish --- a single-size plate of orzo pasta both soft and crunchy that is mixed with chorizo and corn, and finished with plump shrimp. Lamb shank is a slightly intimidating mass of meat served in a cast-iron pot loaded with fresh rosemary. For dessert, banana gratin has a decadent similarity to crumble. A very brief wine list is full of large California producers.