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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Taste Restaurant Review: Baltimore baby-boomers enter Taste with a ready-made set of memories. The former Hess store is where they once went for new school shoes each fall, but where the big attraction was an indoor slide. Chef-proprietor Ann Nault has kept the slide, but is in the business of making quite different sorts of memories. Formerly head chef at Clint Eastwood’s Mission Ranch in Monterey, California, her style is breezily eclectic: Latin (chimichurri steak salad), Asian (tuna tartare tower), Mediterranean (Greek chicken), and Southern (shrimp and grits) are all part of the contemporary mix, which includes both premium-priced entrées and small plates ideal for sharing and wine-pairing. The urban-meets-nautical setting is equally hip, with striped banquettes, red accents, and decorative roping setting a mood that is casual yet sophisticated. You’ll want to dress up---and, of course, wear your chicest shoes.