 Greek food gets a major makeover at this Wicker Park restaurant. Gone are the plates of flaming cheese and typical lamb kebabs; in their place is an interesting array of small and large plates perfect for sharing. Owner David Schneider taps into his Greek heritage and memories of summers spent in the rural villages in the Aegean Islands to create dishes such as fakes (Greek green lentils with fermented sheep feta), melitzanosalata (charcoal-roasted eggplant with tahini) and rampopita (ramps, green garlic and goat feta wrapped in phyllo). But not everything is traditional as the spit-roasted duck gyros with a pomegranate glaze may indicate. Be sure to try the house-made yogurt, either paired in a savory dish or as dessert with honey and walnuts. Try, too, the smoky Cypriot-style red wine and coriander pork loin, with arrives accompanied by pickled green plum, mustard vinaigrette and fresh Myzithra cheese. The creativity spills over to the setting, which includes brass, Byzantine-style lanterns, copper-topped tables and dramatic archways. The Mediterranean theme can be found on the all-Greek wine list as well.
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