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After a successful run at Boqueria, chef Seamus Mullen heads the kitchen at this West Village tapas restaurant that is more like a gastropub in northern Spain. The space used to be a Mexican restaurant, and has high arches between its sections and exposed brick walls. The menu doesn’t reinvent the wheel, offering the usual suspects, such as pan con tomate, oodles of Iberico ham, and plenty of croquetas. But Mullen really shines in the dishes that unite flavorful ingredients. The “Cojonudo…Revisited,” for example, is smoked pig cheek, quail egg and pepper, and you’ll want at least two orders (portions run small). Sardines on toast are paired with soft goat cheese and roasted tomatoes. Squid, cooked on the grill, is crispy on the outside but still juicy and savory within. The wine list, naturally, is all Spanish. And in a nod to the north of Spain, there’s a nice selection of ciders. Desserts might be an afterthought, but do consider the smoky bread pudding with hazelnut ice cream.
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