 Taking its name from the Italian word for "third," Terzo represents the third restaurant for Nice Ventures restaurant group and owner Laurie Thomas, who also own Rose Pistola in North Beach and Rose's Café. The space, formerly the dark and gloomy home of Pane e Vino, has transformed into a beautiful, bright European bistro with tall light-welcoming windows, a communal oak high-top table, brown leather banquettes and a cozy brick fireplace, and mod Edison filament light bulbs suspended from the ceiling. Though Terzo has all the trappings of a Marina hot spot, the crowd is a nice mix of neighborhood regulars and trendy hipsters. The menu, which changes weekly, features an array of dishes perfect for sharing: burrata and house-cured salumi; fluffy, moist ricotta and green garlic soufflé; rare slices of roasted Niman Ranch beef served with brown, crispy potatoes; and the delicately flavored, creamy boudin blanc sausage. Ordering the gnocchi alla Romana can be deceiving---rather than little pasta pillows of potato, it is a custardy semolina square, almost cheesecake-like in texture, in a Niman Ranch beef ragù. The fat nestled deep inside roasted marrow bones is worthy of scooping every last bit. Terzo also offers an impressive list of vegetarian options; try the fennel à la Grecque---braised fennel tossed with olives, oregano and a perfectly soft-cooked egg. The crispy onions are some of the best in town. The wine list includes a nice array of varietals from Italy, France, Spain and California.
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