 Masculine décor, including blood-red walls and wrought iron chandeliers, signal the meal at hand: all-you-can-eat, tableside-carved meat that's the specialty of south Brazil. Meals begin with trips to the salad bar. Be sure to score bites of Manchego cheese, prosciutto di Parma, marinated olives and a ranch dressing of vinegary chopped carrots and red peppers. When the main meal begins, disks, which are color-coded red and green, signal when gauchos are in demand or not required. Just be sure to keep 'em coming for the garlicky picanha and crisp Brazilian sausage. Everything should be topped with the so-good-it's-drinkable chimichurri sauce, a mélange of parsley, garlic and olive oil. The novel-size wine list is impressive, if intimidating, to wine novices. Also located at 51 E. Ohio St., Chicago, 312-670-1006.
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