Thai Street Food

Thai Street Food Restaurant Review:

Here’s the first thing you need to know: Thai Street Food is a one-woman show, and that woman --- Utumporn Killoran --- won’t be rushed or bullied because your papaya salad doesn’t emerge from the kitchen in the same amount of time as your drive-thru burger. Here’s the second thing you should know: The joint, walled with bright photos depicting Thailand's landscape and bedecked with a smattering of wooden tables and an exhibition kitchen, is takeout only and closes on the early side (8 p.m.). But those small inconveniences matter not, because Killoran, who was born near Laos, turns out unassailable Thai cuisine. This is a woman who busts out the real deal: intoxicating panang, massaman, and green and red curries that aren’t masked by sugar; noodle dishes and salads (we like the papaya) that pop with clear, vibrant flavors; and standout crab-and-cheese wontons. Be forewarned, however, that Killoran pounds her food with chiles; if you have an aversion to tongue-numbing heat, make sure you don’t order on the wild side.