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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Thira Restaurant Review: Subtitled a Taste of the Greek Islands, this expansive diner offers a compendium of specialties that are usually restrained to water-bound national enclaves. Some criticize for that; we applaud any restaurant where we can go from tasty souvlaki to flaky spanakopita in the time it takes for a Ferrari to cross the road. In general, Thira compares to a something-for-everyone establishment in Athens---whatever you think is Greek food, it's here, except for french fries (try the roasted potatoes topped with kefalotiri cheese instead). But it's done very well, from stewed beef tips to charcoaled lemon chicken to a mountainous slab of moussaka, with the potatoes, eggplant, beef, tomatoes and bechamel topping layered like colorful sedimentary rock. An all-Greek wine list is interesting if unpredictable.